Making the most of mollusks

There is no indifference when it comes to oysters. People love them or hate them.

In the hate column are likely many a soul who never even tasted an oyster but are instantly repelled by the slimy looking gray mass.

Those who have tasted them and said “nay” are most likely turned off by the bivalve’s gritty green gut contents, generally a combination of algae and phytoplankton that was in the process of being digested when the creature was snatched from its home.

Indeed, when you are eating an oyster, you are devouring a whole animal: gills, stomach, intestines and all. Even an oyster lover like me can get grossed out thinking about it.

On the aficionado side are those who appreciate the essence of the ocean emanating from its brine: the slippery, sensual texture of the fleshy mollusk, and the aphrodisiac qualities that come from the mollusk’s vast vitamin and mineral content, from vitamin A to zinc. Also rich in iron and copper, some oysters can have a metallic finish antis may not like.

In Waikiki, Oyster Hale by Crush has opened to satisfy a craving for raw and cooked oysters — though I admit it’s hard to pay full-service restaurant price when Whole Foods Market’s Two Tides Bar can offer them as a loss leader for $1.50 apiece if you can wait until Fridays to come around.

With a dozen oysters going for about $42 at Oyster Hale, it puts a damper on the evening when you have to keep close tabs on your mollusk count and perhaps tamp down your appetite, but it’s a mellow, relaxing place to be, and there is much on the contemporary izakaya-style menu to enjoy.

The restaurant is at 346 Lewers St., one floor below Genius Lounge. By day, it operates as the beauty supply store Crush before transforming into the restaurant at night.

You’re greeted by oyster of the day and chef’s choice selections that when I visited were, respectively, Wildcat Cove and Taylor Shellfish Farms Virginicas (both $21 per half-dozen).

The Wildcats, a Puget Sound Pacific oyster species with a frilly shell, were quite briny, and I preferred the smooth-shelled creamier and more delicate Virginicas. A quick taste of both determined which sauce to use on them. Offered the options of shoyu Tabasco, spicy citrusy yuzukosho or ponzu with green onion, I used the stronger yuzukosho on the Wildcats and just a whisper of ponzu on the Virginicas.

You can get them topped with uni (add $8), ikura (add $6) or caviar (add $12), but in a place like this, I prefer to refrain to allow the oyster to tell its story of rugged sea coves thousands of miles away. Shooters ($29 per half-dozen) with ponzu, dashi, ikura, wasabi and tobiko can follow after merroir has been noted.

From here, you can move on to hot dishes of oyster dynamite ($18) baked on the half shell with spicy mayo, cheese and green onions, or a spicy sizzling platter ($20) of a half-dozen oysters with garlic oil, anchovy, onions and grape tomatoes, dusted with cayenne and paprika. I would have preferred the smoothness of Sriracha because of the grittiness of the spice powders.

There is also a bowl of sake butter oysters ($18) infused with the sweetness of strawberries and grapes, but you could change it up with clam ($18) or mussel ($16) options. All come with a dinner roll that might be your only carb of the evening, which is important to note. In spite of all the seafood I’d consumed, I felt very hungry just a few hours later.

In this context, sushi rolls seem boring, but you might want to order one or two to prevent hunger pangs later. These include a volcano roll ($18) with crab, avocado, spicy ahi and spicy mayo; a Waikiki roll ($22) with cream cheese, salmon, cucumber and crab; and Diamond Head roll ($28) of spicy tuna, uni, caviar, cucumber and avocado.

Beyond oysters, there is carpaccio of hamachi ($22), salmon ($20) and scallops ($18). I opted for the less common scallops, which turned out to be one of my favorite dishes of the evening, the sweet shellfish brightened by a light yuzukosho ponzu sauce, and finished with slivers of sweet onion and tobiko.

Heavier dishes would include miso ($14), garlic ($14) and yuzukosho chicken ($14). The latter was a bit of a disappointment with the citrus condiment represented only by a small dab atop each piece of chicken.

Dessert was a delight, including light Japanese-style soufflé cheesecake ($7) and a March special of panna cotta ($8), both accompanied by a strawberry compote.

Oyster Hale by Crush

346 Lewers St. second floor, Honolulu
Food: ***½
Service: ****
Ambiance: ***½
Value: ****
Call: 808-926-7674
Hours: 5:30-11 p.m. tuesdays-sundays prices: about $80-$90 for two without alcohol

Nadine Kam’s restaurant visits are unannounced and paid for by Honolulu Star-Advertiser. Follow Nadine on Instagram (@nadinekam) or on YouTube (youtube.com/nadinekam).