Cozy comfort food

Cooking can be done just by following directions, but having the familiarity and witnessing food chemistry in action is what elevates you to being a “cook.” A cook knows cooking contexts. It might be how thick a liquid has to get before it is considered sauce, or how over-boiling soup can dull flavors, or even how much you need to stir during cooking. These are simple things that you learn through trial and error and trial and success more than through simply following recipes. Most recipes leave out the context you need to know you’re on the right track. Making mistakes is how you get there. My oldest kid is coming into their own with this kind of experience.

Last week they really wanted to make dumplings, and I requested that the wrappers be gluten free. They ended up making some substitutions that turned into a bit too chewy of a mess when they were steamed. It was sad seeing the melted lumps of the first batch. When that failed, the filling became tasty meatballs instead. But, it was the sauce I was asking questions about. I was surprised by its creaminess and was informed by my child that the base was miso, which usually has a distinct texture and flavor I catch immediately. I’m not sure what the name is for what happens chemically when miso paste is combined with these ingredients, but it worked very well. I was mulling the flavor profiles over the weekend and decided I wanted it to be a broth for ramen. When I asked them for the sauce recipe, all I got was a list of ingredients, which made me chuckle. No preparation notes? I guess they assumed I would know how to put it together, one cook to another.

Somehow this reminds me of Malaysian flavors I’ve had before. I make a lot of ramen broths for myself, but usually I just stick to the add-ins being the star over the soup — just a little salty bit that gives some flavor to the rest of the bowl. This is the kind of broth you’ll want to spoon up before you’ve finished your noodles.

Tangy Miso Ramen Broth

Ingredients:

• 1/4 cups white miso paste

• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon gochujang

• 2 teaspoons chicken bouillon/stock paste (unsalted, preferably)

• 4 teaspoons brown sugar

• 4 cups water

• 3 tablespoons soy sauce, gluten free or equivalent substitute works well

• 1 cups coconut milk

• 1 teaspoon minced garlic

• 1 teaspoon grated ginger

Ingredients for serving:

• Cooked ramen noodles (I used gluten-free rice ramen)

• Vegetables of choice such as long beans, pumpkin, soy bean sprouts

• Cilantro and Thai basil leaves

• Soft-boiled eggs, halved

Directions:

In a medium-sized stock pot, add the miso paste, gochujang, chicken bouillon and brown sugar to about 1/2 cup of the water. You can adjust the amount of gochujang according to spicy heat preferences, but don’t leave it out entirely. The recipe is for a fairly mild spice level. Over medium-low heat, whisk this together until it is dissolved.

Continue to stir and cook until it is simmering together, then add the rest of the water. Bring this to a low simmer over medium-high heat.

Taste and add soy sauce. If your chicken bouillon was salted, you may want to add less soy sauce.

Add coconut milk, garlic and ginger. Heat until just barely simmering for 3 more minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add ramen noodles to a bowl and ladle approximately 2 cups of broth on top of the noodles. Arrange vegetables and other toppings as desired and serve while hot.

Serves 2.

Mariko Jackson writes about family and food. Email her at thelittlefoodie@gmail.com.